I’m back in civilization after an epic few weeks in the lofty air of the Annapurna mountain range. After a 2 hour bumpy bus ride out of Pokhara city my self and my walking buddy set of with rucksacks, walking sticks, 4.5 vertical kilometers to climb and countless valleys, swing bridges and bowls of rice to concur. The objective of the trek (other then it being amazingly beautiful) was to try and count vultures as we walked and plot them on our map. Its become apparent that with the loss of so many Vultures in the low lands that Himalayan Griffon Vultures are coming down from the mountains to fill the vacuum.

The first day was plane and simple pain and sweat, my soft Irish living caught up with me after the first 5kms walked, “why didn’t you get up and down Ailwee Mountin a few times you flabby fool!”.  Starting at about 1200m its was hot and muggy, probably 25-30′C around mid day, in no time I was gulping water to keep things flowing. It became obvious quickly that to look at the sky and tree line for Vultures plus place your feet where there isn’t a rock waiting to put you down was impossible, so short regular brakes were taken to scour the sky and eat nuts. Several Himalayan Griffon Vultures (HGV’s) were spotted  on the fist day as they crossed the river valley.  After eight hours walking we crashed down in a village called Jinu; a sweet little place squeezed into the valley between the mighty Himalaya and its foot hills (it also conveniently has hot spring pools, how about that, what luck!). Rest and a soak fueled us for an early start and another big push north closer to Annapurna Base Camp at 4200m. In this area of Nepal clouds soon build in the afternoon as the sun heats the range blocking the view of the ice capped behemoths. But early in the day its as clear as crystal and we had our first close look at Machhapuchharey and her taller sisters. This is my fourth time coming to Nepal and have spent the best part of eighteen months out here looking at this skyline from 60km’s away, and now I was standing at its feet, it was fantastic. With butterflies in my stomach, just like after a first kiss, I pressed on bino’s and map in hand.

more to come…

A five hour dusty road trip has delivered me to Chitwan National Park and the home of the Vulture Breeding Program. I spent the first day relaxing in the sweet scented air of the Nepali low lands. Its only 50m above sea level here, a stark contrast to the 8000m vistas I had a few days ago. The breeding center is found 25km in the heart of the park; so a guide and a rickety old jeep where hired for the day. It was obviously only right to make the most of the first steps into the jungle and en-route we saw Rhino, Bear and lots of Croc’s. The bird life is unreal, Chitwan boast’s a staggering 350+ species from bee eaters, hawk eagles and all sorts of very vocal locals. I arrived to find the breeding center and its birds in rude heath, the original 14 oriental white backed vultures I helped to rear and re-locate are now in the massive (photo’s pending..)  breeding pen. Two other pens hold the birds taken over the past two years, once mature they will be introduced into the breeding flock.

Today I’m travailing to the vulture safe zone (VSZ). This is an area we know  Diclofenac free where old unwanted cattle is bought of the local herders and left to live out there days. Once dead the carcass is taken to a feeding area providing safe drug free food for the last few breeding pairs of Asian White Backed Vultures in the area. From there its back to Pokhara to look at the planned VSZ site there and take a little walk into some big hills in search of big birds. More to come……

After hours of work, great generosity from the guests to the Center and a few thousand miles travel. I have arrived in Nepal to roll up mu sleeves and led a hand to Bird Conservation Nepal and its Vulture Conservation efforts. I’m currently held up in the foot hills of Nepal about to make my way down to the Vulture breeding center in Chitwan National Park. A few hours of power a day and transport strikes are getting in the way a bit but as they say here TIN “This is Nepal” More to come soon….James

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